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World-Class Whisky: Does China Have Role To Play Beyond Drinking It?

By Hayden Wood ·

When you think of world-class whisky China may not be the first place that comes to mind

Yet, as we explore the world of whisky, we often think of modern Australian distilleries, new-world New Zealand artisan spirit makers and small town American spirit houses, but, the question remains like a fine whisky aroma—why not China?

Pearl Red Distillery & Rice Winery, (Set on a tea plantation) Guangdong, China

In the wild east of whisky exploration, China has a rich history dating back to 1914 when Tsingtao Winery ventured into the creation of locally produced whisky, brandy, and sparkling wine. Fast-forward to the 1980s, and whisky crafting had spread across the country, from Beijing to Jilin, Shandong to Guangdong, each region bearing unique names like 5-Goat Whisky and Panda Whisky.

In 2019 Diageo announced an interesting-sounding collaboration with Chinese baijiu distiller Jiangsu Yanghe involving the launch of a new whiskey label titled Zhong Shi Ji. “This new-to-world whisky is carefully and specially crafted by master blenders and distillers from Scotland and China,” according to a recent press release.

Pernod Ricard announced the launch of its inaugural Chinese whisky expression, The Chuan, a single malt whisky made in the southwestern Sichuan province. This is the first expression to be released from the distillery since it opened in December 2021.

However, these attempts failed to soar, leaving space for imported whiskies to take root. The exponential growth of the whisky market in China over the last two decades has enticed major industry players, with whisky imports reaching the market in China projected to reach US$1.0bn in 2024. It is also anticipated that the market will experience an annual growth rate of 1.41% (CAGR 2024-2028).

Yet, the burning question remains: Why not China? Why hasn't mainland China produced its own world-class whisky that can stand proudly on the international stage?

What's in a Name? A Lot, Actually:

Breaking down the whisky production process from grain to glass, China possesses the essential ingredients, quality natural resources, and distillation history. The stumbling block? Public perception of quality. 

Chinese Rice Wine is Filtered By Hand Through Cane Baskets

‘Scotch’ carries a brand identity of time-honored craftsmanship, invoking images of pristine water from mountain springs, maltmen in aprons, and copper stills enveloped in the aroma of smoldering peat fires.
In contrast, Chinese whisky lacks these deep-seated associations, often hindered by the abundance of locally produced products that fall short of Scotch standards. Most whisky enthusiasts in China, both locals and foreigners, have yet to consider trying a Chinese whisky, much like the loyalty one feels toward a favorite local dish from their hometown.

Chinese Rice Whisky collects yeast in trays before fermentation.

The Perception Challenge:

While the craft, resources, and environmental factors for producing exceptional whisky are not exclusive to Scotland or other fine whisky producing regions of the world alone, China faces the challenge of altering global perceptions. It’s a challenge that has been met and conquered in countries worldwide, but China, until now, has yet to see a breakthrough.

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Grand Talon Rice Whisky from Pearl Red Distillery, China

Challenge Accepted: Grand Talon Rice Whisky and Pearl Red Distillery:

Enter Grand Talon Rice Whisky and Pearl Red Distillery in Guangdong—a Zhang family effort that rose to the production challenge in 1949 and is set to redefine China’s place in the whisky world. Set on a tea plantation in the mountains outside Guangdong, 3000 year old traditional fermentation and 700 year old

distillation techniques of the east meet the fine cooperage skills and aging in virgin French and American oak barrels from the west. Grand Talon Rice Whisky, crafted from the finest rice across China, embodies a renaissance of Chinese artisanal excellence—a unique expression of whisky forged in Guangdong Province and packaged in a world packaging awarded presentation.

Fully aware of the perception challenges, Grand Talon and Pearl Red Distillery aim to change the narrative.

So, when you ponder world-class whisky, let China be part of that contemplation. With Grand Talon Rice Whisky and Pearl Red Distillery leading the charge, the perception challenge is met with determination and a commitment to crafting whisky that transcends borders.

Grand Talon Rice Whisky is launching with a trade only event, Grand Tasting in Sydney on February 13, 2024. The event coincides with the 2024 Chinese New Year - The Year of the Dragon.

Along with the opportunity to meet family distillery member and brand creator Justin Zhang, Drinks Network founder, Hayden Wood, will be hosting a Grand Tasting of four distillery specialties including Grand Talon Rice Whisky and Barrel-Aged Rice Wine.

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